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Description
I flew into Heraklion — the capital of Crete, a city that once held out under siege for twenty-one years — and left it after two hours. Why? Because strangers told me Rethymno was prettier. I trusted people I’d just met and got on a bus. Turned out to be the right call. Sea five minutes from the center, breakfast I never woke up in time for, cats that run the whole town, and a coffee I drank sitting right on top of one of Europe’s oldest writing systems — one nobody has ever managed to decode. The wild part about this island: nothing stayed where it was put. One earthquake once lifted the whole west coast nine meters out of the sea. Apparently I didn’t stay put either.
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